woke early to find clean 6-8ft swell, thick and heavy, took a few photographs, went out and got two waves before i broke my leggy, nearly drowned after copping a 6 wave set on the head, after a quick breather i returned back to the line up, surfed for a couple of hours, on the last wave pulled in, didn't make it and came up with my board in two pieces, ate the best nachos.