It Was A Trip
We wind through San Ignacio for a kilometre or two, but soon we are straight out of the oasis and straight back into cactus covered arid desert of Baja, at least at this point we were driving 80km/hr on paved road. This lasted 10km or so, soon we hit the end of the pavement and arrive at the end where there are workman constructing the next section of the road, we stop and wait as they clear a road for us with heavy machinery. We drive on and struggle through the sand track whilst getting lost in a cloud of dust from the cars in front, finally emerging on the otherside of which the road was washboard with corigated bumps close together. We drive for 2 hours or so along a series of bumpy sand, salt and washboard roads, we finally arrive at a small town by Lagoon and have a cold drink and discuss the roads just before continuing on, Claude mentions that "the worst is still yet to come". We now begin heading south running parallel with the coast for a few k's eventually heading east in land. During which you begin to see some breath taking mesa's and mountainous terrain, we continue driving at crawling speed along flat plains with several arroyo cobble stone crossings and several dry river beds, during this time we slow for cows on the road and stop several times for photographic moments. We truly felt we were in Africa at this point expecting to see a lion or zebra but substituting with many horses and cattle. As we are driving through the most tough terrain we notice Claude ahead, turns out he had hit a bump too hard and when the car came down he busted the brackets on the roof racks, he was reattaching spares as we arrived he pulled over and let us get a head start whilst they finished it off. We drive on cautiously and 10 km down the way we are forced to stop as there is a fence through the road. I get out to open the fence when I hear some shouting I look over to where I hear this, I see an old mexican farmer with cowboy hat on running, shouting and wildly waving his hands in the air, I stop what i'm doing and wait for him. He arrives to us puffing and panting trying to catch his breath and speaks spanish to us, we couldn't understand him nor could Ben or Trent, he then quickly hands us a piece of paper which is written in english. Which basically says " There has been no rain all year, I need money for gas and I need money to buy cattle feed, in order to continue you will have to donate some water and some money." We had no peso's but happily gave him a bottle of water as did Trent and Ben but he still wasn't satisfied and was pointing at the note where it said money. We informed him with some broken spanish that our friend was down the road and he could speak spanish and pay. We wait around for 15 mins for the Lana's whilst doing so we notice the boys 78' Econoline camper was leaking from the radiator, the aussie comment "she'll be right it's only a pin hole leak" got thrown around, Trent hands the farmer 100 peso's for all three cars, it was getting late and we were losing our head start. We drive on through several moon dust traps and around several wash outs in the road. The desert was looking beautiful as the sun began to set over the mesa's. We watch as Trent observes the tracks around a big hole in the road. The detour track itself looked soft consisting of moon dust (baby powder consistency). Trent and Ben negotiate the road well and make it to the road on the other side quite easily. While we bury the car up to our axel the entire back of our car is resting on the spare tyre underneath. We try several times by digging the spare out and placing whatever you can find thats not spiky and placed it under the wheels, trying to push it out, all we manage to do was get ourselves dusty. Our stress levels were through the roof as the sun setted and the night began to fill in. Luckily enough for us Claude was only 10 mins away, we were skeptical about getting out, especially anytime soon, Claude was optimistic quickly attaching cables to both cars in the last remaining daylight. Sure enough we were towed out backwards by our bumper, we floored it back to the washboard. We continue driving into the night, we first continue in low terrain eventually climbing over several mesa's and repetitive rock hills, at each thinking and hoping it was our last only to reveal the distance of your head lights of more rocky hills. At one point our car completely conked out going up hill and watching the two cars ahead drive off into darkness, luckily its computer restarted and so did the car. After an hour and a half of this climbing and descending over rock hills we hit a paved road and a small town, but we weren't at Scorpion Bay yet. After the small town we continue down a steep hill and across a small creek. For the next hour we drive over some more very bumpy hills, but nothing we had not yet experienced before, finally arriving at what we hope is Scorpion Bay. We drive through town and make our way out the the point to camp at which time we pass a sign that reads Scorpion Bay campgrounds 150 peso's per person. We had finally arrived the time being 9.45pm almost 11 hours of journeying. We quickly make 2 min noodles, while trying to work out if there was any waves, it didn't sound like it. We ate fast and in silence after the biggest day of driving we'd ever done. I felt I was a different person after doing that drive. Exhausted drained physically and mentally, we go to bed and fall asleep immediately with only one thought in our mind what will it look like in the morning, will there be swell?

Roads that rattle screws loose in your bed,
Roads that rattle screws loose in your head.

We awoke the following morning to find head high waves, slightly smaller to the day before but still holding a similar shape, previous to paddling out, we had thought to stay in Abrejoles for a week or so, at least while there was swell, today the boys were leaving to head south to Scorpion Bay. Having enjoyed the surf and the crowd of our new friends, we reached a decision that we to would head south to Scorpion Bay with them. We surf for a few hours or as long as we could last in the cold water,we head in and eat some breakfast and we are back on the road before 12pm. We begin the journey from Abrejoles to Scorpion Bay, up and over the foot hills, as we crawled around the point at Abrejoles being careful not to get bogged, we began to realise that the road out wasn't the road we came in on and soon noticed we were camped at the northern end which picked up the swell, but further around on the southern end was several other point set-ups and a variety of waves, which we had not known about, I could only imagine what it'd be like when there was a solid swell. We drove a further 96km out to the paved highway before continuing on to San Ignacio. Just shortly after returning to highway 1 the road passes a group of flat- topped volcanic cones;the dark reddish-brown rocks in this region give further evidence of past volcanic activity, Finally after winding through low, cactus covered hills, the highway bring's the traveller to the junction with a paved road continuing onto Santa Rosalia or a paved road into San Ignacio. We all stop for fuel and to find an atm and of course there weren't any to be found and continue on down the road into San Ignacio. The first view of San Ignacio was one of the greatest delights we had experienced in Baja after traveling through kilometre after kilometre of un-hospitable terrain. Here in the bottom of a wide arroyo surrounded by arid dessert, is a forest of date palms, and one of the most charming towns. San Ignacio is an attractive, tranquil settlement with thatched roof dwellings and pastel- coloured business structures clustered around an imposing stone mission/street and a tree shade plaza. Our jaws drop as we drive through town.

El Socorro to Abrejoles

We woke quite early to the sounds of dogs barking right outside our van, as they did most of the night. Tired and slightly nervous we jump into the front seat and make our way to the point. We drove out onto an open sand flat approaching several intertwining sand tracks, being careful not getting bogged like the previous morning. We take a turn up a sand road and on top of several small sand dunes, we could finally see Punta Abrejoles and quickly we felt excited. The surf looked intriguing, overhead, clean and some shifty sections. We drove along the salt flats to find the San Diegon’s and the two other Australian camp sites and shortly after we find a place to set up for the next few days. Along the beach at Abrejoles there were almost a dozen campsites scattered in the san dunes along the ocean front. Watching the surf, I quickly realised that their was no one out, I geared up and went to see Claude and his kids, Zac and Addy to see if they were going out, which they were. We all paddled out through a few gaps in the rocks and quickly making it to the channel. At this point the water was still quite cold but still manageable, especially for the waves we were about to surf. My first wave in Baja felt as if it were in slow motion as the wave was kind of ledgy at the take off and unpredictable through the next section, eventually backing off to a few nice round house sections. Zac and Addy exchanged several good rides amongst one another and several brotherly paddle battles while Claude snapped a few shots. We surfed for a good two hours, to everyone getting their fair share we headed in and left Claude to get a couple on his own. Punta Abrejoles is a small fishing town 46km from the paved road and is rather remote. We walked into town along the beach and past the ponga's up to one of two stores. I bought some beer and with little variety we bought tostada's and a apple 3/4 rotten and in ten minutes we had walked from one side of Abrejoles to the other.



Upon departing El Socorro, we were held up for half and hour after being bogged down in a soft track, a few of the local guys hauling cobble stones off the beach noticed our struggles and came to help, shrub under the tyres and a little bit of Mexican muscle and the car was freed and we continued back out to the main road. 10 miles beyond Socorro, the road turns sharply inland, reaching a summit, from here the traveler is offered expansive views of the ocean and the dissected countryside to the northeast. From the mesa the highway drops into a wide valley and enters El Rosario and past the turn off for the Punta Baja continuing on to Punta Abrejoles. After leaving El Rosario highway 1 turns east and follows the wide, cultivated Arroyo del Rosario for a few miles, then crosses the valley and climbs into a region of low, deeply eroded hills. Soon cirio trees and giant cardon cacti appear alongside the highway, as the terrain begins to conform to the armchair traveler's notion of Baja California. With its blue skies, expansive views and abundance of unique vegetation, this is one of Northern America's most fascinating desert regions. After continuing southeast through the ranges of hills and wide valleys, the highway enters a spectacular landscape of large boulders interspersed with dense thickets of cirio, cardon and other varieties of desert vegetation. A quick stop for food and extra supplies in Catvina and we continue on highway 1. Driving for several hours over hot desert land, dazed and confused not knowing when we are going to ever see the ocean again. As our drinks are consumed the floor on the car begins to heat up. From Catavina, the highway continues to lead southeast through interesting rock strewn country. After crossing a narrow arroyo, the road climbs to a 2700-foot summit, then descends quickly to the edge of a dry lake, beyond here the landscape becomes more barren. Highway 1 now meanders through low hills, ascends a 2200-foot saddle and drops onto the basin of Laguna Chapala, a vast, desolate dry lake that becomes a sea of mud following heavy rains. After crossing another range of low, barren hills, the highway traverses a sandy plain to the junction with the road the Bahia de los Angeles. This region is a showcase for the typical vegetation of Baja California's central desert: ciro, cardon, cholla cactus, ocotillo, elephant trees and yucca valida. Reaching the Bahia de Los Angeles we could finally pin point ourselves on the map, soon realising we were only half way. Severally drained and mentally strained after being confronted by several narrow roads and passing semi trailers. For the first 15 miles after leaving the Bahia de los Angeles junction, highway 1 continues to cross level sandy plain. It then climbs into hilly country sparsely vegetated with cirio and elephant trees. Turning almost due south, the highway now descends gradually onto the windy Vizacino Desert, one of the most desolate portions of the entire peninsula. Only hearty yucca valida and scattered clumps of saltbrush interrupt the uniformity of the sandy landscape. Eventually reaching Guerro Negro by late afternoon. Abrejoles being only a short drive away. Through another of Baja's military checkpoints passing the Guerro Negro junction and highway 1 turns inland, heading in a south easterly direction across the barren Vizcaino Desert, vegetation is sparse here. 20 miles from San Ignacio, the road passes a group of flat topped volcanic cones; the dark reddish brown rocks in this region give further evidence of past volcanic activity. Finally after winding through low, cactus covered hills, the highway brings the traveler to the junction with the paved road to San Ignacio. After making a wrong turn we reach the turn off, one of Baja's only signed breaks, the road sign is covered in surf stickers, well this is a good sign we thought. The sun was setting and we realise we weren't going to make it before dark, however grateful we were on the right road. Driving in 5 mile stretches of straight paved road, with little or no vegetation, several mesa's in the distance makes for a beautiful sunset. Once the sun goes down the cows are by the road for warmth, a good reason not to drive at night. Cautiously negotiating the road before driving onto an open salt and sand flat before arriving in town. By now it is 8 o'clock and we haven't eaten much all day. Passing a road side fish taco stand and we decide to stop. The Mexican lady was out of fish so we opted for hot dogs instead. We asked her if she could point us in the direction for camping, pointing towards the point. We decide to wait till the morning to find the camping, instead we slept in a side street for the night, and we would rise early to find the break.

Baja Norte, 'Shipwrecks'

We woke the next morning to find a clean 2 foot swell running down the point nicely, but with a quick feel of the water temperature (14c) we decided to keep heading south in search of another break and perhaps warmer water. The next place we had marked on our map was El Socorro, 20 mins of unpaved roads and we venture back out on highway 1 where the highway widens slightly across a level plateau with occasional cultivated fields. As the road flatens upon the descent of a steep hill into Camalu, the road is flat and is basically a feautreless coastal plain. As approaching Vincente Guerro the motorist can catch glimpses of the high Sierra San Pedro Martir out to the east. Beyond this scenery, the road runs in a straight line across level terrain into San Quintin, just south of San Quintin highway 1 narrows and passes a group of roadside communities and a series of cultivated fields, in between two ranch's we find ourselves making an early turn off to find El Socorro, 2 miles up the road we find ourselves forced to turn around due to soft sand. We head back and find the right road that runs to the break. Socorro setup was neat, two tables, palapa shade and an outdoor toilet. The surf was more exposed to the swell and was 4 foot although the onshore sea breeze was already onto it. Over by the palapas was other surfers/campers packing their campsite and surfboards into and onto the car, I was curious as to how the waves had been here so I decided to go ask them. Upon meeting Claude he informed us that the waves had been fun in the morning and again in afternoon, when it had been glassy. He mentioned the water was quite cold and that they were heading south to Abrejoles with two other Australians, that had just left, he offered us to go with him and his two sons or he said we'd have to wait around all day for the tide to come in and wind to drop off. Ellen and I weighed up our options and realised that by going to Abrejoles that would mean missing out on several breaks on the way. We flipped a coin on it, heads stay around for the night at Socorro which would mean exploring the other breaks or tails we head to Abrejoles and be sure there will be waves. The coin flipped , caught, flipped and revealed it was tails Abrejoles.


San Diego to Tijuana, crossing over

With previous advice given about the boarder crossing into Tijuana, nothing could prepare us. Immediately being thrown into another country and not being able to speak basically any spanish, asking a simple question is now difficult and confusion is most evident during our visa process. It was advised not to stop in Tijuana that being exactly the next thing we find ourselves doing next, only out of necessity. Eventually receiving a vehicle permit, allowing us to travel beyond Baja, exchange our US dollars into Pesos all of this with stress and confusion. A few mispronounced words from the Fast Talk Spanish booklet and we found ourselves cautiously driving out of the chaotic city of Tijuana onto the Scenic Road. It was exactly as we had been told it was, along the ocean, 3 tolls and some military checkpoints. The road from Tijuana from Ensenada takes the traveller through a modern maze of interchanges and divided highways, heads through commercial areas and low hills, through Rosarito. After the Military check point in Rosartio the road continues down to the coast at San Miguel and leading into Ensenada, our first intended stay. As we drove into the main town of Ensenada we realised it was still quite a large town, after seeing a Volkswagen dealership. We drove by the ocean looking for a place to stay for the night, eventually continuing on south, after several attempts at finding a surf break off the paved road we finally wound up at Punta Jacinto " ship wrecks". The surf was 2ft although offering a nice shape to it and was quite intriguing having a shipwreck absurdly right in the middle of the cobble stop point break. We were exhausted and after a good look at the Baja Alamanac, we headed to sleep for the first night in Baja Mexico.